Patriarchal Basilica of Aquileia

Foro Imperiale, Basilica , Abside della Basilica

The city of Aquileia dates back to 181 BC. It was founded by the Romans because of its strategic position and was intended for use as a defensive outpost against attacks from foreign armies and also as an operational base for raids against the Gauls living in the Alpine ranges. It also served as a logistics base for attacks against the neighbouring Illyria, Dalmatia and Pannonia.
The town was initially a military garrison and was built on the banks of the River Natissa.
The town was first inhabited by about three thousand soldiers-settlers that in the space of a few years were joined by others.
In the meantime, Aquileia was becoming an important business and administrative centre. In 89 BC, the colony became a Municipium; and later, under the rule of the Emperor Augustus became capital of the “Venetia ed Histria” Region X (the tenth Roman Region).
Along with this increased stature, so grew the number of monuments and splendid public buildings in this ancient settlement that featured a river port. Foodstuffs arrived from far and wide, by land and by sea, along the vast transport network that Aquileia commanded. Recovered examples of these goods range from spices and bolts of cloth to slaves, amber and flint.
The local craftsmen were master goldsmiths and also worked with glass and terracotta. The city housed very talented artists that worked with marble and stone to create mosaics of incredible beauty.

Aquileia however suffered counterattacks by groups of barbarian infiltrators. When Diocletianus was named Emperor, Aquileia returned to its former splendour as one of the greatest cities in the Roman Empire. Diocletianus opened the mint and had the Governor of Region X (the tenth Roman Region) and the Commander of the High Adriatic fleet’s offices based in the city.
A strong Christian community grew and drew upon the apostles’ preaching. The conversion to Christianity of Istria and the Balkans, Hungary at its territories as far as the Danube had its roots here. The sheer size of the areas concerned made Aquileia one of the major Christian sites and its status was added to considerably when the bishop was bestowed with the title of Patriarch.
Such glory and wealth however only invited more attacks. Attila arrived in 452 and after a protracted siege, overcame the city defences and destroyed everything in front of him. The population fled to Grado and to the islands around the Laguna that were easier to defend in the event of attack and thus founded Venice.
In the 6th century with the Lombard invasion and the foundation of a new kingdom, Fruili became a dukedom and Aquileia lost some of its traditional political and administrative power over the Region. It remained a schismatic patriarchal seat (the disagreement with the Romans dated back to 557 and disapproval on behalf of the Provincial Council of some actions that happened during the Council of Constantinople, caused the so-called “Schism of the Three Chapters”) competing against the new bishopric at Grado.

Interno della Basilica

The schism ended in 699 with Aquileia being reinstated with its title of Patriarchal authority over the land whereas the bishop of Grado awarded power over the islands.
Abandoned by the Patriarchs, Aquileia flourished once more thanks to Charlemagne who supported the return of Patriarch Massenzio. From the beginning of the 9th century and throughout the 10th and 11th centuries, Aquileia was once more restored to its original splendour.
The Basilica that was destroyed by Avari and Hungarian invasions was restored and re-consecrated by the Patriarch Poppone.
From 1077, the Emperor bestowed the power of feudal lord upon the Patriarch including the right to mint coin. This Patriarchal dominion lasted for some centuries but the ever-increasing power of the Republic of Venice was to put an end to Patriarchal rule in 1420.
From this time on, Aquileia slipped into a slow decline returning to its origins as a simple farming village.
In 1751, the diocese was finally abolished and the dismembered territories were assimilated into the Archbishopric of Udine that had authority over the lands of Venice and Gorizia and power over the Austrian territories.

Patriarchal Basilica

veduta della copertura della Basilica

The Basilica complex lay somewhat outside the centre of Aquileia in Roman times. The main body of the church is made up of two Paleochristian Halls, erected during the 4th century BC by the bishop Teodoro. These halls are both linked to a central corridor that was originally used for baptismal ceremonies. A baptistery was a later addition complete with baptismal font. The magnificent floor mosaics that can be found both inside and outside the Patriarchal Basilica also come from this period. The Basilica is laid in the shape of a Latin cross that is elongated as far as the remains of the baptistery. The interior houses three naves divided by a colonnade that continues as far as the transept that opens on to three apses that are beautifully decorated with frescoes. You can enter the “Crypt of the Frescoes” from the Basilica and find wonderful Byzantine works of art. You can also access the “Crypt of the Excavations” that runs from the Basilica to the ground beneath which the Poppone Bell Tower was erected. Here we can find remains dating back to three different periods, one pertains to a 1st century private residence, the second to a Paleochristian meeting room and the third to a sizeable Paleochristian Basilica that was destroyed during the Hun invasion.
The Campanile (bell tower), tradition would have it, was built by the Patriarch Poppone in 1031 as a watchtower. The bell is 73 metres (240 feet) tall and preserves the remains of a mosaic from the Paleochristian meeting room.
Near the Monastery is the “Museo Paleocristiano” that houses the remains of floor mosaics from a local Paleochristian Basilica. Among the numerous artefacts on display are funerary inscriptions, mosaic shards and relics that date back to a period between the 4th and 5th centuries and Mediaeval times. The Museo Civico del Patriarcato, near the Piazza del Capitolo houses wonderful wood and precious metal relics, sculptures, inscriptions, holy vestments and liturgical scripts. Every year, historical and archaeological exhibitions are hosted on the top floor of the building.

Archaeological area

Foro Imperiale and Porto fluviale

The archaeological heritage of Aquileia would have been so much the richer if in the past its buildings had not been treated as open-air builders’ yards. Materials for new buildings were carted away for new sites in the city or the suburbs. However, when archaeological remains are to be studied in depth, it is usually better to remove them from where they were found and then reconstruct and preserve them in more a more suitable location like a museum or private collection.
A tour of the city is indispensable to get to know Aquileia and really must include a visit to the museums where some wonderful remains are housed the Museo Archeologico exhibits remains relating to the city under the Romans, the Museo Paleocristiano with the Paleochristian period and the Museo Civico del Patriarcato specialises in Patriarchal times.
The political and administrative centre of Roman Aquileia lies along the SS 352 road and follows what was the old consular road. The ancient Cardo (military road), now Via Giulia Augusta, runs right through the city as far as the crossroads with Via Gemina where we find the remains of the Forum, where the colonnade that was part of the Eastern portico can still be seen today.
The Basilica Civile lies beyond the Forum and the archaeological digs are open to visitors. Alongside the Basilica ran a paved Roman road.
The Spa is also open to the public and in their heyday, these baths were decorated with magnificent mosaics some of which have been recovered from the digs and are now preserved in the Archaeological Museum.
Going down towards the river, Via Gemina meets the huge River Port that extends for more than 300 metres and still its ramps, steps and quays are still visible.
The city walls were built in stages and in some places also protect port buildings. The walls enfold craftsmen’s stores, shops and wonderful private houses. Factories and furnaces are to be found outside the walls.
The Mausoleum has its roots in a necropolis that was located in the area of Roncolon. This burial site dates back to the middle of the 1st century AD and was rebuilt between Via Giulia Augusta and Via XXIV Maggio.
A visit to the Archaeological Museum will unveil some of the most precious pieces that have come to light from research into this period of the city’s existence.
The Gallerie Lapidarie are situated outside the Museum and exhibit mosaics tomb stones, inscriptions, the architectural features of some ancient buildings and, in the Sezione Navale, there is an entire ship recovered from near Monfalcone.

UNESCO INSCRIPTION

Archaeological Area and the Patriarchal Basilica of Aquileia
Inscription N° 825 1998 C (iii) (iv) (vi)

Criterion (iii): Aquileia was one of the largest and most wealthy cities of the Early Roman Empire.
Criterion (iv): By virtue of the fact that most of ancient Aquileia survives intact and unexcavated; it is the most complete example of an Early Roman city in the Mediterranean world.
Criterion (vi): The Patriarchal Basilica Complex in Aquileia played a decisive role in the spread of Christianity into central Europe in the early Middle Ages

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